In sunless formulation, performance extends beyond color development. It includes the full sensory experience during oxidation, skin compatibility, and wearability throughout the development window.
One of the most common concerns associated with self-tanning products is development odor. This is not a defect in formulation. It is a predictable biochemical outcome of the reaction between dihydroxyacetone and the skin.
In Arumé, Bronze Boss incorporates Ordenone, a water-based odor-neutralizing technology, to address this at the molecular level.
In this post we'll explain:
• Why sunless products develop an odor
• What Ordenone is
• How odor neutralization differs from fragrance masking
• Why Ordenone appears as “Fragrance (Parfum)” on the INCI
• Why this distinction matters in professional formulation
Why Sunless Products Develop an Odor
The active ingredient in most sunless formulations is Dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
DHA reacts with free amino acids in the stratum corneum through a Maillard-type reaction. This process forms melanoidin pigments, which create the appearance of a tan.
During this reaction, small volatile compounds are also produced. These volatile organic compounds are responsible for what consumers recognize as the characteristic “self-tan smell.”
It is important to understand:
• This odor is not microbial
• It is not a preservation issue
• It is not a sign of instability
• It is a natural byproduct of the tanning reaction
Because development can take several hours, the management of this odor significantly impacts the user experience.
Traditional Approach: Fragrance Masking
Historically, many formulations addressed development odor by increasing fragrance intensity.
Fragrance masking works by layering stronger aromatic compounds over undesirable scent. While this can temporarily overpower odor, it does not address the odor molecules themselves.
Increasing fragrance load can also:
• Create a heavier sensory profile
• Increase the potential for sensitivity in fragrance-reactive individuals
• Compete with the intended aromatic identity of the product
For professional-grade formulations, a more refined approach is preferred.
What Is Ordenone?
Ordenone is a highly effective, water-based odor-neutralizing agent used in cosmetic systems to reduce the perception of malodor.
Rather than functioning as a traditional perfume component, Ordenone is engineered to interact directly with odor-causing molecules.
Its mechanism of action includes:
• Encapsulation of malodorous molecules
• Reduction in volatility of odor compounds
• Limitation of interaction between odor molecules and olfactory receptors
By encapsulating and inactivating malodor molecules, Ordenone reduces the intensity of development odor without relying on excessive fragrance.
Because it is water-based, it integrates seamlessly into aqueous systems such as sunless solutions without disrupting:
• DHA stability
• pH balance
• Color development kinetics
• Skin feel
In Arumé, Ordenone supports a controlled and refined development experience rather than simply masking odor.
Odor Neutralization vs. Fragrance Masking
Understanding the distinction between neutralization and masking is critical.
Fragrance masking adds stronger scent to overwhelm unwanted odor.
Odor neutralization works at the molecular level to reduce the perception of that odor before additional scent structure is applied.
From a formulation science perspective, neutralization allows for:
• Lower overall fragrance concentration
• A cleaner sensory profile
• Improved wearability during extended development
• Greater control over final aromatic identity
This approach reflects a performance-driven philosophy rather than a cosmetic shortcut.
Why Is Ordenone Listed as “Fragrance (Parfum)”?
Under global cosmetic labeling regulations, ingredients that contribute to scent modification are often grouped under the INCI designation “Fragrance” or “Parfum.”
This classification does not distinguish between:
• Perfuming agents
• Aroma modifiers
• Odor neutralizers
• Functional aromatic technologies
If an ingredient alters scent perception in any way, it may be categorized within the fragrance declaration.
Ordenone appears under “Fragrance (Parfum)” due to this regulatory structure, not because its primary role is to act as a conventional perfume ingredient.
This distinction is important for ingredient transparency.
The presence of “Fragrance” on an INCI does not automatically indicate a heavy fragrance load or indiscriminate scent blending. It reflects a broad labeling category that encompasses multiple types of aromatic and odor-control technologies.
In Arumé, this designation includes functional odor neutralization alongside a measured aromatic profile.
Why We Chose This Approach in Arumé
Arumé was formulated with three non-negotiable standards:
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Skin-first integrity
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Controlled development experience
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Professional wearability
Sunless products are worn during oxidation for several hours. Clients sleep in them, move in them, and interact socially while they develop.
Managing development odor in a refined and intelligent way directly impacts the perceived quality of the product.
Rather than increasing fragrance intensity, Arumé uses odor neutralization technology to:
• Reduce the perception of DHA-derived odor
• Support a lighter overall fragrance system
• Maintain a clean skin experience during wear
• Elevate professional formulation standards
This reflects a formulation philosophy focused on engineering rather than masking.
Safety and Compatibility
When used within established cosmetic safety parameters, odor-neutralizing agents like Ordenone:
• Do not interfere with DHA’s tanning reaction
• Do not compromise preservative systems
• Do not alter pH stability
• Do not impact final color development
Their role is strictly sensory modulation.
In aqueous sunless systems, compatibility and stability are essential. The water-based nature of Ordenone makes it suitable for integration without destabilizing the formula.
The Broader Standard of Professional Sunless Formulation
Professional sunless chemistry requires balancing performance, stability, and sensory experience.
There are two primary ways to address development odor:
Increase fragrance to overpower it.
Or design the system to reduce odor at the molecular level.
Arumé reflects the second approach.
By incorporating functional odor-neutralizing technology, Bronze Boss prioritizes:
• Intelligent formulation
• Lower fragrance burden
• Controlled development experience
• Ingredient transparency
Ordenone is not included for scent intensity. It is included for performance refinement.
In professional formulation, the most important ingredients are often the least visible.
Arumé is built on that principle.
